Chuck Watkins
Landscape Maintenance,
Design, & Installation
Alpharetta, GA 30004
Landscape Maintenance,
Design, & Installation
Alpharetta, GA 30004
| Tips and help for homeowners |
Turf basics:
In North America, several turfgrass varieties are common, depending on region. They are commonly divided into "warm-season"
turfgrass such as bermudagrass (cynodon dactylon) or zoysia (zoyzia spp.), and "cool-season" turfgrass such as fescue (festuca spp.)
or bluegrass (poa spp.). This general division describes optimum growing seasons: Warm-season grasses generally become
dormant after temperatures drop below 50°F, while cool-season grasses may experience "summer decline" if heat and drought stress
the turf. Before fertilizing, aerating, mowing, or overseeding, it is important to know the basic needs of one's turf. It is also helpful to
know the analysis of one's soil (sand/clay/loam, pH, nutrient and organic content, etc.). You can get a chemical analysis through the
Cooperative Extension Service in your locale that will tell you what your soil contains and what it needs to make your plants grow
optimally. (It costs around $10 here, and bags and instructions may be obtained through the County Extension Office)
If you are planning to plant grass, do you want it green year-round? If so, fescue is your best bet here. How much shade is in your yard?
Bermudagrass needs 5-8 hours of full sun to do its best, and even the most shade-tolerant zoysia won't take full shade well, but both
will thrive in heat that causes fescue to curl and wither. How long can you wait for your lawn? Sod creates an instant lawn, but costs far
more than starting from seed. Many of the improved bermudagrass and zoysia hybrids are only vegetatively propagated, so they have
no viable seeds and must be installed as sod. Whether you seed or sod, the soil must be adequately prepared to ensure optimum
results. Raking or dragging to level soil, the addition of compost and time-release fertilizer, and proper watering will help preserve your
investment. If sodded, use a roller to create good sod-soil contact, and be sure that joints are tight to prevent ugly gaps where weed
seeds can germinate. If seeding, cover seed with a thin layer of wheat straw (NOT hay) or a specially-designed "blanket" that can be
attached to the ground with large staples. As the seed contains all that the plant needs to germinate, you don't have to fertilize until the
seed has germinated, but I find it easier to fertilize when I spread the seed rather than coming back weeks later. New grass or seed
needs to be watered DAILY to prevent it from drying out in the hot sun, and may need two waterings (morning and mid-afternoon) during
extreme heat. Once seed has germinated and taken root (more than two weeks after planting), it can be gradually weaned to watering
every other morning, then twice per week, and finally to "an inch at dawn on Sunday" (C) after a couple months. The wisest time to seed
fescue is in fall, and bermudagrass in spring, if possible. Grass should be mowed as soon as it has rooted well (with SHARP blades
to cut -- rather than uproot -- new grass), as mowing encourages tillering (or filling in with additional side stems).
== Fertilizing and herbicide application: ==
Always read and follow label directions. Know what you need to do and if the product on hand will do that. Apply the correct amount or
concentration, and apply at the correct time. Be patient with results: some products are systemic and need to translocate (or move
throughout the plant) completely, which may take a few days to a few weeks.
All turf requires fertilizer during the active growing season to achieve optimum appearance, but "one size fits all" does NOT apply here!
While fescue needs nitrogen for new growth in cool weather, it is important to remember that applying nitrogen to cool-season grasses
during late spring and summer may actually do more harm than good, as above-ground growth is not desirable or healthy. Additionally,
different grasses have different fertilizer requirements, and the same grass may need different formulations of fertilizer depending on
environment (soil texture, water, shade) or time of year (bermudagrass needs less nitrogen and a little more potassium as cool
weather approaches, for example). Using a mulching blade or a mulching mower will return chemicals and moisture in grass clippings
to the soil to be re-used by the grass. If mowing is performed regularly (every 7 to 10 days), this will NOT contribute to thatch buildup
and will add organic matter to the soil, and may reduce fertilizer applications by as much as 1/3 through mineralization (the returning of
elements taken up by the plant back to the soil).
If using a pre-emergence herbicide, be aware that application during transition may affect greenup! Also, some selective herbicides
may cause chlorosis, or yellowing, of turf around the application site, especially if applied during high temperatures or when turf is
stressed. There are schedules available for application timing (and the timing is crucial), and many good products available for
homeowner use. Just be very sure to follow label instructions exactly, because being off with rate, timing, or irrigation can make the
difference between success and environmental degradation (waste, pollution, and habitat destruction).
Honestly, it is really better to hire a good professional to apply chemicals, because there are lots of things to know. If someone is
putting chemicals in your yard, be SURE that they know what they are doing. There is a specific certification needed to apply ANY
chemical--man-made/natural/fertilizer/herbicide--to any yard other than your own. Contact the GA Dept. of Agriculture for more
information on Category 24 Certification and pesticide licensing.
== Overseeding: ==
Most fescue does not "creep" like bermudagrass (or centipede, if you're from a warmer clime). It has one growing crown that produces
additional stems beside the main one, but it has no nodes at which to root (like bermudagrass) so "1 seed=1 plant." Each plant lives
about 5-10 years, so if you never overseed you will eventually run out of fescue. About a month before the temperature drops below 80,
and after a long rain, aerate the fescue thoroughly, then spread seed at the "overseeding" rate listed. If you have time, you may then use
a roller to insure good soil contact. Water correctly (no runoff or puddles), and then fertilize once turf is established. Obviously you'll want
to delay your pre-emergence herbicide application in fall or use a fescue seed safe herbicide.
Bermudagrass may be overseeded with rye if a green lawn is desired all winter. Be sure to use an annual or a tetraploid variety to
insure that rye will die out after bermudagrass resumes growth in spring, and adjust your fertilizer and herbicide schedules accordingly,
as you will be growing year-round and don't want to deplete your soil!
== Watering: ==
Watering should be performed in the early morning before the dew burns off. The longer the grass remains moist, the greater the
opportunity for fungal infections. Watering during the sun and wind of the daylight hours wastes water to evaporation (some estimates
show up to 60% lost). Frequent shallow waterings result in shallow roots, making turf drought-susceptible. Watering once (possibly
twice) per week to a depth of one inch without puddles or runoff is best. Severely compacted or sloping turf may need pauses during the
irrigation cycle to allow for percolation. Turf needs more water than shrubs, usually, so take care when setting up irrigation cycles to
prevent over-watering any plants other than flowers. Watering multiple times per week also creates a perfect environment for moisture-
loving weeds like kyllinga and nutsedge, both of which are difficult to control once established. Algae also thrive in wet conditions and
can prevent turf growth. Root rot, an infection of shrub roots, is also aided by over-watering, and many plants (especially azaleas) will
not tolerate "wet feet."
If you have a dog (or your neighbors are not courteous while walking theirs), you may have noticed circles of yellowing turf. Animal urine
contains salts and concentrated nitrogen that harms or kills grass if not diluted quickly. Pouring a gallon of water over it immediately will
help dilute it and prevent it from killing a circle. Damage will be worse on stressed turf, of course. I covered the poo issue in the FAQ.
== Mowing: ==
Warm-season turfgrasses generally prefer shorter mowing heights (1/2 inch to 2 inches), and require little -- if any -- overseeding. After
dormancy, no further maintenance beyond weed control is needed until just before "greenup" or the breaking of dormancy. Many cool-
season turfgrasses thrive best when mowed higher (2 to 4 inches).
Sharp mower blades are an important component of good maintenance, as dull blades tear turf instead of cutting cleanly, leaving a
ragged tip susceptible to pathogens and evaporation. Sharp mulching blades function better, chopping clippings more finely.
Don't water before mowing, and avoid mowing wet turf. If you have irrigation, water pressure takes time to re-zero, so heads may take
time to drop back down below turf, and you may hit them when mowing! Wet turf is slippery, increasing risk of slip/fall injury and of
"mower slide" that can tear out long stripes of healthy turf. (And scare the heck out of you when you slide sideways down a hill on a 400-
lb machine!) Additionally, wet grass may cut unevenly, resulting in a non-uniform cut. Wet grass also clumps and may leave globs of
clippings on your turf that suffocate turf and heat up during decomposition. Some pathogens are spread by water droplets, so while
mowing wet grass, you may be spreading undesirable fungi to uninfected turf. Finally, wet soil is more susceptible to compaction, so
wheel ruts are more likely to form and the pore spaces needed by soil to hold oxygen and water may be compressed, thereby
increasing compaction and decreasing tilth.
There are two main types of mowers: rotary and reel.
== Aerating: ==
Aeration works best when done deeply with a core (not spike) aerator. The goal is to puncture thatch (if existent), remove a soil core
approximately 1/2 inch in diameter and up to 6 inches long (usually 3 to 4 inches), and redeposit that core on top of the soil. Aeration
provides greater surface area for aerobic bacteria and beneficial fungi to inhabit, and they in turn break down the clippings and organic
matter to a form usable by the grass plants. Additionally, aeration de-compacts soil, allowing roots and water to penetrate more easily.
As the cores decompose, they melt back into the turf, creating porous spaces for water and oxygen. It is best to aerate after a long day
or more of rain, or after irrigation on-and-off for several hours, as this allows maximum spoon penetration through the moist soil. Core
aeration will usually not disrupt pre-emergence chemical barriers, but it usually occurs between applications, anyway (for our
COMPLETE package clients; your company may vary).
For cool-season turf, aerate in fall before overseeding, and for warm-season turf, in late spring/early summer after turf has broken
dormancy and is strong enough to survive the aeration. Warm-season turfgrass may be aerated throughout the summer, but multiple
aerations are usually not necessary except in extremely compacted areas.
Fescue needs to be overseeded at least every third year (if not every fall) to remain thick. Most fecsue is a clumping-type grass that may
produce side stems (lateral stems called tillers), but will not spread like bermudagrass or zoysia to fill in bare patches (creeping red
fescue, a shade-loving grass, is an exception to the rule). Fescue plants have a finite lifespan (often 5-10 years, and 1 year for tillers),
and when they die, they will not be replaced unless you plant a new seed there. Fescue: 1 seed = 1 plant.
Ornamental plant basics:
Chances are that whatever you plant is going to get bigger than it was when you planted it. When creating your planting plan, keep in
mind the size that plant will be in three years. Cryptomerias or Leyland cypresses planted eight feet on center may look fine NOW, but
they'll be crowding each other in a couple years. Additionally, think about how your plants will affect what's around them: Deciduous
trees casting heavy shade will create problems for full-sun plants and grasses, and some plants require more water than others. Site
plants with similar water needs together (xeriscaping) to optimize water use and keep plants healthy. Some plants actually produce
toxins that act as herbicides (allelopathy), decreasing competition through chemical warfare!
Pay attention to the Pest Plant list when planning your landscape. Many plants that look great in the landscape may have consequences
for the greater environment! Ask someone from Oregon about ivy, or from Florida about water hyacinth, or from Georgia about KUDZU!
Lists are available through WalterReeves.com and Invasive.org, as well as many others. (See the Links page)
If you have irrigation, know where your heads are and how they will affect your plants. While a weeping willow will survive in a near-
pond, "wet feet" will probably kill most azaleas and many evergreens. Flowers generally need more water then shrubs, and your
irrigation should account for that. (Changing a head is cheaper than replacing several established plants...and quicker, too!)
Dig a proper hole. For our clay soil, leave the bottom firm to prevent the plant from sinking, and make the diameter about twice the root
ball size. There are studies that show amending soil with compost may not help in the long run, but there are fertilizers and microbial
boosters that may improve survivability and hasten root growth. Leave the root ball an inch or more above the existing grade (soil level)
to allow shallow surface roots to spread through fill dirt without being confined to heavy, compacted clay.
Mulch! Covering the plant's base with a mulch will help retain moisture at the root zone, keep temperatures more even, and protect
against frost heave (we seldom get that cold here, though). Additionally, the mulch helps prevent weed seeds from germinating,
minimizing competition for resources, and as it decomposes, mulch will add organic matter to your soil.
Remove tree stakes after a year. Trees allowed to sway in the wind develop stronger trunks and vascular systems, some research has
shown.
I wish you successful gardening! Please contact me if I may be of assistance.
- Mow every 7 to 10 days during growing season with a SHARP mulching blade.
- Do NOT bag clippings.
- Mow at appropriate height for the species, never remove more than one third of grass height per mowing, and keep turf longer
during hot, dry weather. - Water "an inch at dawn on Sunday,"(C) or once per week (if needed) during the dew period of early morning.
- Apply herbicides and fertilizers wisely: know what your turf needs and what it doesn't! (see below for more on this)
- Avoid watering before mowing and avoid mowing waterlogged lawns.
- When planting grass, know the characteristics of the area in which you are planting: is it shady? Is it well-watered? Will it need
mowing? Should it be green year-round?
In North America, several turfgrass varieties are common, depending on region. They are commonly divided into "warm-season"
turfgrass such as bermudagrass (cynodon dactylon) or zoysia (zoyzia spp.), and "cool-season" turfgrass such as fescue (festuca spp.)
or bluegrass (poa spp.). This general division describes optimum growing seasons: Warm-season grasses generally become
dormant after temperatures drop below 50°F, while cool-season grasses may experience "summer decline" if heat and drought stress
the turf. Before fertilizing, aerating, mowing, or overseeding, it is important to know the basic needs of one's turf. It is also helpful to
know the analysis of one's soil (sand/clay/loam, pH, nutrient and organic content, etc.). You can get a chemical analysis through the
Cooperative Extension Service in your locale that will tell you what your soil contains and what it needs to make your plants grow
optimally. (It costs around $10 here, and bags and instructions may be obtained through the County Extension Office)
If you are planning to plant grass, do you want it green year-round? If so, fescue is your best bet here. How much shade is in your yard?
Bermudagrass needs 5-8 hours of full sun to do its best, and even the most shade-tolerant zoysia won't take full shade well, but both
will thrive in heat that causes fescue to curl and wither. How long can you wait for your lawn? Sod creates an instant lawn, but costs far
more than starting from seed. Many of the improved bermudagrass and zoysia hybrids are only vegetatively propagated, so they have
no viable seeds and must be installed as sod. Whether you seed or sod, the soil must be adequately prepared to ensure optimum
results. Raking or dragging to level soil, the addition of compost and time-release fertilizer, and proper watering will help preserve your
investment. If sodded, use a roller to create good sod-soil contact, and be sure that joints are tight to prevent ugly gaps where weed
seeds can germinate. If seeding, cover seed with a thin layer of wheat straw (NOT hay) or a specially-designed "blanket" that can be
attached to the ground with large staples. As the seed contains all that the plant needs to germinate, you don't have to fertilize until the
seed has germinated, but I find it easier to fertilize when I spread the seed rather than coming back weeks later. New grass or seed
needs to be watered DAILY to prevent it from drying out in the hot sun, and may need two waterings (morning and mid-afternoon) during
extreme heat. Once seed has germinated and taken root (more than two weeks after planting), it can be gradually weaned to watering
every other morning, then twice per week, and finally to "an inch at dawn on Sunday" (C) after a couple months. The wisest time to seed
fescue is in fall, and bermudagrass in spring, if possible. Grass should be mowed as soon as it has rooted well (with SHARP blades
to cut -- rather than uproot -- new grass), as mowing encourages tillering (or filling in with additional side stems).
== Fertilizing and herbicide application: ==
Always read and follow label directions. Know what you need to do and if the product on hand will do that. Apply the correct amount or
concentration, and apply at the correct time. Be patient with results: some products are systemic and need to translocate (or move
throughout the plant) completely, which may take a few days to a few weeks.
All turf requires fertilizer during the active growing season to achieve optimum appearance, but "one size fits all" does NOT apply here!
While fescue needs nitrogen for new growth in cool weather, it is important to remember that applying nitrogen to cool-season grasses
during late spring and summer may actually do more harm than good, as above-ground growth is not desirable or healthy. Additionally,
different grasses have different fertilizer requirements, and the same grass may need different formulations of fertilizer depending on
environment (soil texture, water, shade) or time of year (bermudagrass needs less nitrogen and a little more potassium as cool
weather approaches, for example). Using a mulching blade or a mulching mower will return chemicals and moisture in grass clippings
to the soil to be re-used by the grass. If mowing is performed regularly (every 7 to 10 days), this will NOT contribute to thatch buildup
and will add organic matter to the soil, and may reduce fertilizer applications by as much as 1/3 through mineralization (the returning of
elements taken up by the plant back to the soil).
If using a pre-emergence herbicide, be aware that application during transition may affect greenup! Also, some selective herbicides
may cause chlorosis, or yellowing, of turf around the application site, especially if applied during high temperatures or when turf is
stressed. There are schedules available for application timing (and the timing is crucial), and many good products available for
homeowner use. Just be very sure to follow label instructions exactly, because being off with rate, timing, or irrigation can make the
difference between success and environmental degradation (waste, pollution, and habitat destruction).
Honestly, it is really better to hire a good professional to apply chemicals, because there are lots of things to know. If someone is
putting chemicals in your yard, be SURE that they know what they are doing. There is a specific certification needed to apply ANY
chemical--man-made/natural/fertilizer/herbicide--to any yard other than your own. Contact the GA Dept. of Agriculture for more
information on Category 24 Certification and pesticide licensing.
== Overseeding: ==
Most fescue does not "creep" like bermudagrass (or centipede, if you're from a warmer clime). It has one growing crown that produces
additional stems beside the main one, but it has no nodes at which to root (like bermudagrass) so "1 seed=1 plant." Each plant lives
about 5-10 years, so if you never overseed you will eventually run out of fescue. About a month before the temperature drops below 80,
and after a long rain, aerate the fescue thoroughly, then spread seed at the "overseeding" rate listed. If you have time, you may then use
a roller to insure good soil contact. Water correctly (no runoff or puddles), and then fertilize once turf is established. Obviously you'll want
to delay your pre-emergence herbicide application in fall or use a fescue seed safe herbicide.
Bermudagrass may be overseeded with rye if a green lawn is desired all winter. Be sure to use an annual or a tetraploid variety to
insure that rye will die out after bermudagrass resumes growth in spring, and adjust your fertilizer and herbicide schedules accordingly,
as you will be growing year-round and don't want to deplete your soil!
== Watering: ==
Watering should be performed in the early morning before the dew burns off. The longer the grass remains moist, the greater the
opportunity for fungal infections. Watering during the sun and wind of the daylight hours wastes water to evaporation (some estimates
show up to 60% lost). Frequent shallow waterings result in shallow roots, making turf drought-susceptible. Watering once (possibly
twice) per week to a depth of one inch without puddles or runoff is best. Severely compacted or sloping turf may need pauses during the
irrigation cycle to allow for percolation. Turf needs more water than shrubs, usually, so take care when setting up irrigation cycles to
prevent over-watering any plants other than flowers. Watering multiple times per week also creates a perfect environment for moisture-
loving weeds like kyllinga and nutsedge, both of which are difficult to control once established. Algae also thrive in wet conditions and
can prevent turf growth. Root rot, an infection of shrub roots, is also aided by over-watering, and many plants (especially azaleas) will
not tolerate "wet feet."
If you have a dog (or your neighbors are not courteous while walking theirs), you may have noticed circles of yellowing turf. Animal urine
contains salts and concentrated nitrogen that harms or kills grass if not diluted quickly. Pouring a gallon of water over it immediately will
help dilute it and prevent it from killing a circle. Damage will be worse on stressed turf, of course. I covered the poo issue in the FAQ.
== Mowing: ==
Warm-season turfgrasses generally prefer shorter mowing heights (1/2 inch to 2 inches), and require little -- if any -- overseeding. After
dormancy, no further maintenance beyond weed control is needed until just before "greenup" or the breaking of dormancy. Many cool-
season turfgrasses thrive best when mowed higher (2 to 4 inches).
Sharp mower blades are an important component of good maintenance, as dull blades tear turf instead of cutting cleanly, leaving a
ragged tip susceptible to pathogens and evaporation. Sharp mulching blades function better, chopping clippings more finely.
Don't water before mowing, and avoid mowing wet turf. If you have irrigation, water pressure takes time to re-zero, so heads may take
time to drop back down below turf, and you may hit them when mowing! Wet turf is slippery, increasing risk of slip/fall injury and of
"mower slide" that can tear out long stripes of healthy turf. (And scare the heck out of you when you slide sideways down a hill on a 400-
lb machine!) Additionally, wet grass may cut unevenly, resulting in a non-uniform cut. Wet grass also clumps and may leave globs of
clippings on your turf that suffocate turf and heat up during decomposition. Some pathogens are spread by water droplets, so while
mowing wet grass, you may be spreading undesirable fungi to uninfected turf. Finally, wet soil is more susceptible to compaction, so
wheel ruts are more likely to form and the pore spaces needed by soil to hold oxygen and water may be compressed, thereby
increasing compaction and decreasing tilth.
There are two main types of mowers: rotary and reel.
- Rotary (or flail-type) mowers have blades or (rarely) cutting line that spins parallel to the ground. These are the most common
type, and are adequate for most types of turf. Mulching mowers (like mine) have taller decks and specialized blades that keep
clippings aloft inside the cutting deck and chop them into confetti. Because they have a high surface area to mass ratio, the
clippings decompose more quickly, releasing the water, elements, and organic matter back into the soil. The decomposed
organic matter is pH neutral (so it will gradually bring acidic soil like Georgia red clay more into balance), and holds water so
that plants may extract it as needed, reducing the need for irrigation. - Reel mowers have a cylindrical spiral of blades (usually 5 or 7) that contact a bed knife (fixed blade at the bottom), creating a
continuous cutting surface like scissors. These are usually more expensive to sharpen, but leave a carpet-like appearance.
Inexpensive (about $100) non-motorized versions are available also, making this the least expensive (but most labor-intensive)
means to mow a lawn. Some coarse turf types may not respond well to reel mowing, and some adjustable bed knives may not
offer a wide range of mow heights. These mowers frequently create shorter mowing intervals (3-7 days) because of the shorter
mowing heights and the 1/3 rule. (1/3 of an inch and a half is only 1/2 inch -- that's not much growth for irrigated and fertilized
bermudagrass!)
== Aerating: ==
Aeration works best when done deeply with a core (not spike) aerator. The goal is to puncture thatch (if existent), remove a soil core
approximately 1/2 inch in diameter and up to 6 inches long (usually 3 to 4 inches), and redeposit that core on top of the soil. Aeration
provides greater surface area for aerobic bacteria and beneficial fungi to inhabit, and they in turn break down the clippings and organic
matter to a form usable by the grass plants. Additionally, aeration de-compacts soil, allowing roots and water to penetrate more easily.
As the cores decompose, they melt back into the turf, creating porous spaces for water and oxygen. It is best to aerate after a long day
or more of rain, or after irrigation on-and-off for several hours, as this allows maximum spoon penetration through the moist soil. Core
aeration will usually not disrupt pre-emergence chemical barriers, but it usually occurs between applications, anyway (for our
COMPLETE package clients; your company may vary).
For cool-season turf, aerate in fall before overseeding, and for warm-season turf, in late spring/early summer after turf has broken
dormancy and is strong enough to survive the aeration. Warm-season turfgrass may be aerated throughout the summer, but multiple
aerations are usually not necessary except in extremely compacted areas.
Fescue needs to be overseeded at least every third year (if not every fall) to remain thick. Most fecsue is a clumping-type grass that may
produce side stems (lateral stems called tillers), but will not spread like bermudagrass or zoysia to fill in bare patches (creeping red
fescue, a shade-loving grass, is an exception to the rule). Fescue plants have a finite lifespan (often 5-10 years, and 1 year for tillers),
and when they die, they will not be replaced unless you plant a new seed there. Fescue: 1 seed = 1 plant.
Ornamental plant basics:
Chances are that whatever you plant is going to get bigger than it was when you planted it. When creating your planting plan, keep in
mind the size that plant will be in three years. Cryptomerias or Leyland cypresses planted eight feet on center may look fine NOW, but
they'll be crowding each other in a couple years. Additionally, think about how your plants will affect what's around them: Deciduous
trees casting heavy shade will create problems for full-sun plants and grasses, and some plants require more water than others. Site
plants with similar water needs together (xeriscaping) to optimize water use and keep plants healthy. Some plants actually produce
toxins that act as herbicides (allelopathy), decreasing competition through chemical warfare!
Pay attention to the Pest Plant list when planning your landscape. Many plants that look great in the landscape may have consequences
for the greater environment! Ask someone from Oregon about ivy, or from Florida about water hyacinth, or from Georgia about KUDZU!
Lists are available through WalterReeves.com and Invasive.org, as well as many others. (See the Links page)
If you have irrigation, know where your heads are and how they will affect your plants. While a weeping willow will survive in a near-
pond, "wet feet" will probably kill most azaleas and many evergreens. Flowers generally need more water then shrubs, and your
irrigation should account for that. (Changing a head is cheaper than replacing several established plants...and quicker, too!)
Dig a proper hole. For our clay soil, leave the bottom firm to prevent the plant from sinking, and make the diameter about twice the root
ball size. There are studies that show amending soil with compost may not help in the long run, but there are fertilizers and microbial
boosters that may improve survivability and hasten root growth. Leave the root ball an inch or more above the existing grade (soil level)
to allow shallow surface roots to spread through fill dirt without being confined to heavy, compacted clay.
Mulch! Covering the plant's base with a mulch will help retain moisture at the root zone, keep temperatures more even, and protect
against frost heave (we seldom get that cold here, though). Additionally, the mulch helps prevent weed seeds from germinating,
minimizing competition for resources, and as it decomposes, mulch will add organic matter to your soil.
Remove tree stakes after a year. Trees allowed to sway in the wind develop stronger trunks and vascular systems, some research has
shown.
I wish you successful gardening! Please contact me if I may be of assistance.
ChuckWatkinsLandscape.com © 2008. All rights reserved.