| Frequently Asked Questions |
Chuck Watkins
Landscape Maintenance,
Design, & Installation
Alpharetta, GA 30004
Landscape Maintenance,
Design, & Installation
Alpharetta, GA 30004
Can you mow every two weeks or once per month?
No. Not usually, anyway. Proper grass cutting means removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade per cut to
avoid stressing turf. For bermudagrass, this means that only 1/2 inch should be cut from a 1.5-inch-tall stand
of turf. For fescue, this means 1 inch from a 4 inch stand. Also, longer mowing intervals produce spindly, tall,
thin grass, and if seedheads are allowed to form, the plant puts energy into forming the seedhead that
should be used for tillering (horizontal filling with more stems). Additionally, if fertilizer and water are applied,
grass grows tall enough in 14 days that mowing time is doubled-- or tripled --due to overlap or crosscutting
required (which will more than double the cost of your service for that visit due to labor time involved), and the
volume of clippings generated creates an unacceptable appearance. This overabundance of clippings may
also contribute to thatch buildup. Less frequent cutting may result in other problems as well (more weed
germination & competition, poor appearance after cutting, fungal problems, water percolation problems due
to thatch accumulation, etc.).
If you are asking this because of budget, you may save money if you don't fertilize or water, as grass will grow
more slowly-- but it also may go dormant if too stressed. We will only mow your turf if it needs it, but if it needs
it, we must be allowed to cut it! I take my work very seriously, and I am good at it. My rates are reasonable, and
within industry standards for weekly visits. If allowed to do my job (and rainfall cooperates), your turf will look
its best; but I cannot be micro-managed by anyone with less turfgrass education and experience than me. I'm
not trying to be mean or stubborn, just been down that road before with unsatisfactory results.
Why don't you bag your clippings?
I use mulching mowers (they have decks specifically designed for mulching and special blades that chop
clippings to confetti). Because of the design of the decks and blades, the clippings remain aloft inside the
deck and are finely cut. The fine-cut clippings will NOT create thatch in your turf, as we cut weekly, fertilize
properly, and educate clients about proper watering for less volume of clippings. These clippings also
contain water and elements that are desirable for soil and turf (mineralization). Because I use organic
methods where possible, your soil will contain microbes and fungi that break down the clippings to a form
usable by the plants. Also, these clippings will keep soil covered, minimizing evaporation. As the clippings
decompose, they return organic matter to your soil, helping create tiny spaces (macropores and micropores)
for water and air, improving percolation and fighting compaction. Mulching clippings may also reduce fertilizer
needs by about 1/3, thereby reducing the cost of applying fertilizer and its associated environmental impact.
And because we use fewer synthetics, the soil ecosystem is healthier: Earthworms and microorganisms will
help aerate soil and decompose clippings.
Sorry to be gross, but is my dog's poo a problem?
Yes! While nobody likes to step in it or smell it (or get it stuck in mower tires, or be confected with dried poo
dust while mowing!), it is more than just a nuisance: It is a genuine health and ecosystem risk. Dog poo left
on turf will wash into the watershed, contaminating streams. It also endangers the health of my employees
and me (and YOU!) by exposing us to a variety of nasty microbes like Campylobacter, E.Coli, fecal coliform,
parvovirus (even if your dog has been vaccinated), and other vectors. We will never use chemicals that will
endanger the health of you or your pets, so please help protect our health by cleaning up after your pet. And
NEVER, EVER, EVER use dog or cat (or any carnivore) poo as fertilizer or compost, as some microbes may
be passed from the feces to the person eating its fruit or vegetables through the plant. For more information,
visit www.DirtyWork.net for some great links and info.
I have weeds in my yard! What can you do to make them go away and never return?
Weeds have two main controls: Cultural (mow height, water/fertilizer application, soil quality, sunlight, etc.)
and Chemical (herbicide). By mowing your turf regularly with sharp blades at the correct height, watering and
fertilizing correctly, and maintaining healthy soil, you can encourage healthy turf while discouraging weeds
and minimizing your need for herbicides.
"Correct watering and fertilization?"
For most turf the general rule is "WATER DEEPLY ONCE PER WEEK." This means watering one inch once
per week in the early morning without puddles or runoff if there has been no rainfall. As your soil conditions
improve, irrigation will become less of an issue (except in periods of drought) due to better root penetration
and organic moisture retention. Over-fertilization is common, because so many mineral/element deficiencies
look similar to low nitrogen, so the general (but incorrect) practice is to just add more fertilizer. The County
Extension Service can do a great and inexpensive soil test to tell the exact chemical makeup of your soil so
that you can add only what you need. If you want a quicker but less complete analysis, many stores sell a kit
that tests soil pH and NPK content. Our "Georgia Red Clay" soil tends to be slightly acidic (great for
rhododendron-family and other native species, but bad for some turf), and is often heavily compacted during
home construction, so adding nitrogen alone is not the answer.
Do I need to water?
If I have been totally caring for your lawn (mowing, aerating, topdressing, fertilizing) for more than 3 years, you
may not need to water except during periods of drought, as you will have good root penetration and
percolation. Otherwise, your bermudagrass will need an inch of water each week during the growing season,
and your fescue will need watering when it shows signs of stress, especially during summer. I learned in
March of 2007 that one of my clients has not watered in the 6 years I've maintained his yard, and he has a
healthy stand of bermudagrass. (It would look better with water, though!) Studies have shown that
bermudagrass maintained at 3 inches (that's a little taller than we maintain) will grow a root up to 3 feet long,
and with 4,000 square feet of surface area on the root hairs, it can find water to survive. It's just prettier and
healthier with an inch of water per week.
Why water ‘an inch at dawn on Sunday? (C)’ Shouldn't I water more than once per week?
Without rainfall the turf will wilt, and during prolonged droughts, turf may go dormant to protect itself . For
bermudagrass, an inch to 1.5" per week is sufficient for healthy growth. For fescue, summer watering is
necessary, as it is a cool-season grass, but frequent irrigation may encourage fungal growth that can be
expensive to treat. As we never work on Sunday, there is no conflict with our mowing or herbicide application
schedule if you water on Sunday; and if you consistently water on the same day, you are less likely to "forget
for a few weeks." Check local watering restrictions before beginning irrigation cycles, though!
Watering more than once per week encourages shallow root growth: roots go where the water is, and with
frequent shallow watering, the water is near the soil surface. If we have a drought and watering bans begin,
those shallow roots will dry out and stress the turf (or die!). With deep watering once per week, the water
percolates down through the aerated, organic matter-enriched soil. The organic matter absorbs water like a
sponge, and the deeper watering encourages deeper root growth, allowing turf to "get it's own water" when
rainfall is more scarce.
If your yard has not been aerated and previous mowers did not mulch, your soil is probably compacted, and
watering may need to be split into intervals to insure percolation instead of runoff. If you are watering and
notice water flowing—whether through the grass, over the curb, across the driveway—STOP watering and
allow a half-hour or more for percolation. Runoff washes away granular products, moves organic matter, and
wastes the money you are paying for water, as well as potentially harming the environment.
Do I need to aerate? When?
If you have never aerated, your turf likely needs it. (We aerate our year-round clients' yards every year.)
Aeration punches 3"-4" deep holes through thatch, turf, and compacted clay soil. Core aerators then deposit
these plugs on top of the turf, where they eventually decompose. Over time, this process will de-compact soil,
allowing for greater percolation. It also increases the surface area of the turf, encouraging beneficial aerobic
bacterial and fungal growth. The cost depends upon the size and slope of your yard ($40 and up, avg $60),
but the benefit is MUCH better soil and turf quality. For bermudagrass, I aerate once grass breaks dormancy
and after prolonged rain for maximum spoon penetration. For fescue, I aerate and overseed in fall. I use a
core aerator, and suggest you never use a spike aerator.
I already have a company that applies my chemicals. Will that be a problem?
Usually not. There would only be a problem it they apply a liquid product shortly before we arrive, depending
upon their "set" or drying time and the amount of time needed for translocation (for systemics). If you are
happy with their service, keep them. We don't make money to apply herbicides and fertilizer, but we prefer to
do our own so that we know what and when products are applied and may apply only WHAT is needed
WHEN it is appropriate. We are not a chemical company; the clients we apply for are our regular
maintenance clients.
What about insecticide?
Most turf will naturally have some grubs or pests in it. If turf is healthy, it can withstand a few pests. If they
become a problem, we can apply a powder that contains a naturally-occurring bacteria called BT or BP
(depending on target pest). We try to avoid pesticides because of the unwanted side effects like health
hazards, undesired killing (earthworms, ladybugs and other predatory critters and animals, etc.), and
persistence. We can offer you some information on natural and effective means of protecting your plants from
pests. It may cost more short-term, but in the long-term view it is better for your children's (and their
children's) environment. I do not use turf insecticides unless absolutely necessary, and then I prefer to use
organic methods (like BT or beneficial nematodes). The dollar cost may be higher, but there are costs
beyond money...
I have brown (or yellow, or dead) spots in my turf. Why?
If the spots are 12 inches or smaller in diameter, they may be pet urine. (If you see it happen, pour a gallon of
water over urine to dilute it.) If you applied a herbicide to kill weeds, this could be the culprit (read labels
before use: some have max temps for app, while some may not be listed as 'safe' for your type of grass).
Some critters (like grubs/larvae, nematodes, and insects) eat parts of your grass, and fungi may attack if
conditions are favorable. There is no short answer, but many websites offer pathogen ID assistance. Healthy
turf can withstand many pests, but good cultural practices insure best results in ANY situation.
What is the best mulch to use?
It is a question of aesthetics. What do you like to look at? You will live in this landscape every day, so choose
a mulch that you find appealing. Pine straw stays in place better, but decomposes more quickly. You will
probably need to reapply any organic (i.e., plant-derived) mulch yearly. Remember that mulch only helps to
prevent weeds if it is thicker than 3 inches for pine straw, 1 inch for bark and wood. Some research shows
that wood mulches within 2 feet of your home may encourage termites, but I haven't met a qualified
entomologist to get the definitive answer. (An exterminator in my Category 24 class told me that non-home-
invading wood roaches like hard mulch and ants like pine straw.) I like natural mulches: synthetic mulches
work well, but must be kept clean, often need to be re-colored due to UV fading, and don't contribute organic
matter to soil. If you use a stone mulch (marble chips, pebbles, brick chips, etc.), PLEASE use a border
material to contain it or cut in a 4" bedline! Those little rocks become dangerous projectiles when struck by a
trimmer or mower, and they dull mower blades when struck.
Why only maintain in the Alpharetta/Milton/John's Creek area?
Drive time is unproductive. Who wants to pay us to drive a 2-hour round trip to cut a single yard? If you have
several neighbors who need us, we can probably dedicate a day or half-day to your neighborhood, but to do a
single yard is not cost-effective (or is outlandishly costly for the homeowner).
We can INSTALL ANYWHERE, as we simply add the one-time cost of the drive time into the installation price
for that single visit, so if you need design/build services outside of Alpharetta, we can certainly do that (but
usually NOT tomorrow or by Friday, as we have a schedule for our crew).
You don't do contracts for maintenance?
No. Most companies DO require contracts because of the strange way our industry works: during the warm
season, the company spends more than it takes in (chemicals, fuel, equipment maintenance, LOTS AND
LOTS AND LOTS of labor), and in the winter you recoup those losses. I explain this to clients, and most are
honest with me and with themselves when planning their budgets. Most of my fellow landscapers shake their
heads and tell me stories of unscrupulous clients cancelling service at the onset of winter, but those clients
would renege with or without a contract, I would assume.
For clients living at the edge of their means, I recommend weekly packages. They are MUCH tougher on me
and my company, but I must put myself in the shoes of the recently-divorced mother of two who has neither
the time nor the inclination to spend two or more hours each week maintaining her yard, or the elderly couple
who wants to maintain their independence for as long as possible or the single person who has just bought
their first house and knows as much about landscape maintenance as I do about inter-office memo routing.
No homeowner should be forced to look at an ugly yard because they can't commit to $200-$300/month year-
round. I would LOVE to have the security of knowing exactly how much money I have for the monthly budget,
but am aware that I have been given stewardship of a great company, and that God is in control and I
probably won't be living in a cardboard box under my equipment trailer for lack of rent! :) I still have many of the
clients I've had for years, and some have taken us with them when they've moved.
The short version: Loyalty has nothing to do with paper.
How much does it cost to maintain an average yard?
Our BASIC minimum is $40/visit. Most BEDS packages are around $45-$60 per visit. COMPLETE packages
vary based on project size, hours needed to prune, cost of products applied, etc. COMPLETE packages begin
at about $200/mo for 12 months, but could theoretically go higher than $400/mo if you have a huge yard and
lots of pruning (but that's unlikely). Contact us for a free estimate!
No. Not usually, anyway. Proper grass cutting means removing no more than 1/3 of the grass blade per cut to
avoid stressing turf. For bermudagrass, this means that only 1/2 inch should be cut from a 1.5-inch-tall stand
of turf. For fescue, this means 1 inch from a 4 inch stand. Also, longer mowing intervals produce spindly, tall,
thin grass, and if seedheads are allowed to form, the plant puts energy into forming the seedhead that
should be used for tillering (horizontal filling with more stems). Additionally, if fertilizer and water are applied,
grass grows tall enough in 14 days that mowing time is doubled-- or tripled --due to overlap or crosscutting
required (which will more than double the cost of your service for that visit due to labor time involved), and the
volume of clippings generated creates an unacceptable appearance. This overabundance of clippings may
also contribute to thatch buildup. Less frequent cutting may result in other problems as well (more weed
germination & competition, poor appearance after cutting, fungal problems, water percolation problems due
to thatch accumulation, etc.).
If you are asking this because of budget, you may save money if you don't fertilize or water, as grass will grow
more slowly-- but it also may go dormant if too stressed. We will only mow your turf if it needs it, but if it needs
it, we must be allowed to cut it! I take my work very seriously, and I am good at it. My rates are reasonable, and
within industry standards for weekly visits. If allowed to do my job (and rainfall cooperates), your turf will look
its best; but I cannot be micro-managed by anyone with less turfgrass education and experience than me. I'm
not trying to be mean or stubborn, just been down that road before with unsatisfactory results.
Why don't you bag your clippings?
I use mulching mowers (they have decks specifically designed for mulching and special blades that chop
clippings to confetti). Because of the design of the decks and blades, the clippings remain aloft inside the
deck and are finely cut. The fine-cut clippings will NOT create thatch in your turf, as we cut weekly, fertilize
properly, and educate clients about proper watering for less volume of clippings. These clippings also
contain water and elements that are desirable for soil and turf (mineralization). Because I use organic
methods where possible, your soil will contain microbes and fungi that break down the clippings to a form
usable by the plants. Also, these clippings will keep soil covered, minimizing evaporation. As the clippings
decompose, they return organic matter to your soil, helping create tiny spaces (macropores and micropores)
for water and air, improving percolation and fighting compaction. Mulching clippings may also reduce fertilizer
needs by about 1/3, thereby reducing the cost of applying fertilizer and its associated environmental impact.
And because we use fewer synthetics, the soil ecosystem is healthier: Earthworms and microorganisms will
help aerate soil and decompose clippings.
Sorry to be gross, but is my dog's poo a problem?
Yes! While nobody likes to step in it or smell it (or get it stuck in mower tires, or be confected with dried poo
dust while mowing!), it is more than just a nuisance: It is a genuine health and ecosystem risk. Dog poo left
on turf will wash into the watershed, contaminating streams. It also endangers the health of my employees
and me (and YOU!) by exposing us to a variety of nasty microbes like Campylobacter, E.Coli, fecal coliform,
parvovirus (even if your dog has been vaccinated), and other vectors. We will never use chemicals that will
endanger the health of you or your pets, so please help protect our health by cleaning up after your pet. And
NEVER, EVER, EVER use dog or cat (or any carnivore) poo as fertilizer or compost, as some microbes may
be passed from the feces to the person eating its fruit or vegetables through the plant. For more information,
visit www.DirtyWork.net for some great links and info.
I have weeds in my yard! What can you do to make them go away and never return?
Weeds have two main controls: Cultural (mow height, water/fertilizer application, soil quality, sunlight, etc.)
and Chemical (herbicide). By mowing your turf regularly with sharp blades at the correct height, watering and
fertilizing correctly, and maintaining healthy soil, you can encourage healthy turf while discouraging weeds
and minimizing your need for herbicides.
"Correct watering and fertilization?"
For most turf the general rule is "WATER DEEPLY ONCE PER WEEK." This means watering one inch once
per week in the early morning without puddles or runoff if there has been no rainfall. As your soil conditions
improve, irrigation will become less of an issue (except in periods of drought) due to better root penetration
and organic moisture retention. Over-fertilization is common, because so many mineral/element deficiencies
look similar to low nitrogen, so the general (but incorrect) practice is to just add more fertilizer. The County
Extension Service can do a great and inexpensive soil test to tell the exact chemical makeup of your soil so
that you can add only what you need. If you want a quicker but less complete analysis, many stores sell a kit
that tests soil pH and NPK content. Our "Georgia Red Clay" soil tends to be slightly acidic (great for
rhododendron-family and other native species, but bad for some turf), and is often heavily compacted during
home construction, so adding nitrogen alone is not the answer.
Do I need to water?
If I have been totally caring for your lawn (mowing, aerating, topdressing, fertilizing) for more than 3 years, you
may not need to water except during periods of drought, as you will have good root penetration and
percolation. Otherwise, your bermudagrass will need an inch of water each week during the growing season,
and your fescue will need watering when it shows signs of stress, especially during summer. I learned in
March of 2007 that one of my clients has not watered in the 6 years I've maintained his yard, and he has a
healthy stand of bermudagrass. (It would look better with water, though!) Studies have shown that
bermudagrass maintained at 3 inches (that's a little taller than we maintain) will grow a root up to 3 feet long,
and with 4,000 square feet of surface area on the root hairs, it can find water to survive. It's just prettier and
healthier with an inch of water per week.
Why water ‘an inch at dawn on Sunday? (C)’ Shouldn't I water more than once per week?
Without rainfall the turf will wilt, and during prolonged droughts, turf may go dormant to protect itself . For
bermudagrass, an inch to 1.5" per week is sufficient for healthy growth. For fescue, summer watering is
necessary, as it is a cool-season grass, but frequent irrigation may encourage fungal growth that can be
expensive to treat. As we never work on Sunday, there is no conflict with our mowing or herbicide application
schedule if you water on Sunday; and if you consistently water on the same day, you are less likely to "forget
for a few weeks." Check local watering restrictions before beginning irrigation cycles, though!
Watering more than once per week encourages shallow root growth: roots go where the water is, and with
frequent shallow watering, the water is near the soil surface. If we have a drought and watering bans begin,
those shallow roots will dry out and stress the turf (or die!). With deep watering once per week, the water
percolates down through the aerated, organic matter-enriched soil. The organic matter absorbs water like a
sponge, and the deeper watering encourages deeper root growth, allowing turf to "get it's own water" when
rainfall is more scarce.
If your yard has not been aerated and previous mowers did not mulch, your soil is probably compacted, and
watering may need to be split into intervals to insure percolation instead of runoff. If you are watering and
notice water flowing—whether through the grass, over the curb, across the driveway—STOP watering and
allow a half-hour or more for percolation. Runoff washes away granular products, moves organic matter, and
wastes the money you are paying for water, as well as potentially harming the environment.
Do I need to aerate? When?
If you have never aerated, your turf likely needs it. (We aerate our year-round clients' yards every year.)
Aeration punches 3"-4" deep holes through thatch, turf, and compacted clay soil. Core aerators then deposit
these plugs on top of the turf, where they eventually decompose. Over time, this process will de-compact soil,
allowing for greater percolation. It also increases the surface area of the turf, encouraging beneficial aerobic
bacterial and fungal growth. The cost depends upon the size and slope of your yard ($40 and up, avg $60),
but the benefit is MUCH better soil and turf quality. For bermudagrass, I aerate once grass breaks dormancy
and after prolonged rain for maximum spoon penetration. For fescue, I aerate and overseed in fall. I use a
core aerator, and suggest you never use a spike aerator.
I already have a company that applies my chemicals. Will that be a problem?
Usually not. There would only be a problem it they apply a liquid product shortly before we arrive, depending
upon their "set" or drying time and the amount of time needed for translocation (for systemics). If you are
happy with their service, keep them. We don't make money to apply herbicides and fertilizer, but we prefer to
do our own so that we know what and when products are applied and may apply only WHAT is needed
WHEN it is appropriate. We are not a chemical company; the clients we apply for are our regular
maintenance clients.
What about insecticide?
Most turf will naturally have some grubs or pests in it. If turf is healthy, it can withstand a few pests. If they
become a problem, we can apply a powder that contains a naturally-occurring bacteria called BT or BP
(depending on target pest). We try to avoid pesticides because of the unwanted side effects like health
hazards, undesired killing (earthworms, ladybugs and other predatory critters and animals, etc.), and
persistence. We can offer you some information on natural and effective means of protecting your plants from
pests. It may cost more short-term, but in the long-term view it is better for your children's (and their
children's) environment. I do not use turf insecticides unless absolutely necessary, and then I prefer to use
organic methods (like BT or beneficial nematodes). The dollar cost may be higher, but there are costs
beyond money...
I have brown (or yellow, or dead) spots in my turf. Why?
If the spots are 12 inches or smaller in diameter, they may be pet urine. (If you see it happen, pour a gallon of
water over urine to dilute it.) If you applied a herbicide to kill weeds, this could be the culprit (read labels
before use: some have max temps for app, while some may not be listed as 'safe' for your type of grass).
Some critters (like grubs/larvae, nematodes, and insects) eat parts of your grass, and fungi may attack if
conditions are favorable. There is no short answer, but many websites offer pathogen ID assistance. Healthy
turf can withstand many pests, but good cultural practices insure best results in ANY situation.
What is the best mulch to use?
It is a question of aesthetics. What do you like to look at? You will live in this landscape every day, so choose
a mulch that you find appealing. Pine straw stays in place better, but decomposes more quickly. You will
probably need to reapply any organic (i.e., plant-derived) mulch yearly. Remember that mulch only helps to
prevent weeds if it is thicker than 3 inches for pine straw, 1 inch for bark and wood. Some research shows
that wood mulches within 2 feet of your home may encourage termites, but I haven't met a qualified
entomologist to get the definitive answer. (An exterminator in my Category 24 class told me that non-home-
invading wood roaches like hard mulch and ants like pine straw.) I like natural mulches: synthetic mulches
work well, but must be kept clean, often need to be re-colored due to UV fading, and don't contribute organic
matter to soil. If you use a stone mulch (marble chips, pebbles, brick chips, etc.), PLEASE use a border
material to contain it or cut in a 4" bedline! Those little rocks become dangerous projectiles when struck by a
trimmer or mower, and they dull mower blades when struck.
Why only maintain in the Alpharetta/Milton/John's Creek area?
Drive time is unproductive. Who wants to pay us to drive a 2-hour round trip to cut a single yard? If you have
several neighbors who need us, we can probably dedicate a day or half-day to your neighborhood, but to do a
single yard is not cost-effective (or is outlandishly costly for the homeowner).
We can INSTALL ANYWHERE, as we simply add the one-time cost of the drive time into the installation price
for that single visit, so if you need design/build services outside of Alpharetta, we can certainly do that (but
usually NOT tomorrow or by Friday, as we have a schedule for our crew).
You don't do contracts for maintenance?
No. Most companies DO require contracts because of the strange way our industry works: during the warm
season, the company spends more than it takes in (chemicals, fuel, equipment maintenance, LOTS AND
LOTS AND LOTS of labor), and in the winter you recoup those losses. I explain this to clients, and most are
honest with me and with themselves when planning their budgets. Most of my fellow landscapers shake their
heads and tell me stories of unscrupulous clients cancelling service at the onset of winter, but those clients
would renege with or without a contract, I would assume.
For clients living at the edge of their means, I recommend weekly packages. They are MUCH tougher on me
and my company, but I must put myself in the shoes of the recently-divorced mother of two who has neither
the time nor the inclination to spend two or more hours each week maintaining her yard, or the elderly couple
who wants to maintain their independence for as long as possible or the single person who has just bought
their first house and knows as much about landscape maintenance as I do about inter-office memo routing.
No homeowner should be forced to look at an ugly yard because they can't commit to $200-$300/month year-
round. I would LOVE to have the security of knowing exactly how much money I have for the monthly budget,
but am aware that I have been given stewardship of a great company, and that God is in control and I
probably won't be living in a cardboard box under my equipment trailer for lack of rent! :) I still have many of the
clients I've had for years, and some have taken us with them when they've moved.
The short version: Loyalty has nothing to do with paper.
How much does it cost to maintain an average yard?
Our BASIC minimum is $40/visit. Most BEDS packages are around $45-$60 per visit. COMPLETE packages
vary based on project size, hours needed to prune, cost of products applied, etc. COMPLETE packages begin
at about $200/mo for 12 months, but could theoretically go higher than $400/mo if you have a huge yard and
lots of pruning (but that's unlikely). Contact us for a free estimate!
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
| |
 |
ChuckWatkinsLandscape.com © 2008. All rights reserved.